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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.